Protecting Your Skin: Expert Insights for Skin Cancer Awareness Month

Skin cancer rates continue to rise globally – why do you think awareness and prevention are still such a challenge?

Absolutely right. Despite decades of public health campaigns, skin cancer remains one of the most common cancers in the UK, with approximately 150,000 new cases of non-melanoma skin cancer and 20,000 new cases of melanoma diagnosed every year – and that number keeps climbing. I think there are several challenges.

One is the fact that damage from sun exposure can take decades to show up. We know that even childhood sun exposure and burning can significantly increase the risk of skin cancers. In addition, tans are still perceived as attractive and given the increasing focus on appearance and image, people are often prepared to put their health at risk for the sake of their aesthetic. Concerningly, 43% of adults between 18-25 have reported sunbed usage… that’s not an awareness gap, that’s a behaviour gap. Unpicking those psychological connections is genuinely hard. In addition, I think in the UK, there is a perception, often wrongly, that our sun is weaker and people assume the risk is lower than abroad. With the increasing UV index, we know that this isn’t the case.

As a Consultant Dermatologist, what do you believe are the most common misconceptions people have about sun protection?

There are so many misconceptions!

1. That SPF alone is all you need for sun protection. Sun protection is 3 things: behaviour, covering up (hats, clothing) and then SPF as your last line of defence.
2. The idea that SPF itself is dangerous. This has gained traction on social media, but there is simply no credible clinical evidence to support it. What we do have overwhelming evidence for is that excessive UV exposure causes DNA damage, premature ageing and skin cancer.
3. That wearing SPF daily blocks vitamin D synthesis. At normal, everyday usage levels this isn’t true – you would need to apply sunscreen with laboratory precision, covering every centimetre of skin at the correct density, to meaningfully suppress vitamin D production. We don’t want people to completely avoid the sun, but for many people incidental sun exposure between the months of April – October, with arms and legs exposed, is enough for vitamin D synthesis. Lighter skins make vitamin D more quickly (15 minutes or so in moderate sunlight is enough), whilst darker skins may take up to 30-45 minutes depending on skin tone.
4. That cloudy or overcast days don’t require protection. Cloud cover filters very little UVA – the ray responsible for pigmentation and deeper dermal damage – which contributes to skin cancer risk. Cloud is also not a reliable UVB blocker. Whilst very thick cloud cover will only allow 30% of UVB through, broken or scattered cloud transmits 80-90% of UVB.
5. That burning is inevitable or necessary for tanning. Burning is your skin’s danger signal, telling you that damage has been done. And this damage can stay with you for years – your skin has a really long memory.

How important is daily sun protection, even in countries with less consistent sunshine like the UK?

This answer requires some nuance. Between November and February, UVB levels in the UK are genuinely too low to cause burning under normal circumstances, and the contribution to skin cancer risk during those months is negligible.

UVA is lower in winter too – roughly 10% of its summer peak in January – but it doesn’t fall as steeply as UVB. Also, its cumulative effect over years is still relevant. The long-term damage to collagen, the slow accumulation of pigmentation changes, the daily exposure through windows during commuting – none of that completely switches off in winter. So for patients who are managing pigmentation or focused on skin ageing, year-round SPF has genuine merit even in the darker months.

But perhaps the most practical argument for daily SPF is a behavioural one. The UK weather is notoriously unpredictable, and the months where people get caught out – an unexpectedly sunny March afternoon, a bright October weekend – are exactly when they haven’t reached for their sunscreen because they weren’t expecting to need it. Building it as a daily habit means you’re never second-guessing the forecast. From May to September especially, when UVB is meaningfully high and burning is a real risk, that habit is already in place

How does consistent sun exposure over time contribute to long-term skin damage and skin cancer risk?

UV radiation damages DNA in skin cells, both directly and indirectly – and the damage accumulates. UVB causes direct DNA mutations through the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. UVA generates reactive oxygen species that trigger matrix metalloproteinases, breaking down collagen and elastin, while also causing indirect DNA mutations that impair the skin’s ability to repair itself. The skin has remarkable repair mechanisms, but they are overwhelmed by repeated, cumulative exposure over years. The result is an increased risk of skin cancers in susceptible individuals – both melanoma and non-melanoma, as well as photoageing – visible as fine lines, pigmentation and textural change.

Can you explain the difference between UVA and UVB rays? Why is protection against both essential?

UVB rays have a shorter wavelength and higher energy, making them primarily responsible for sunburn and a significant driver of skin cancers. UVA rays penetrate more deeply into the dermis and are the primary driver of photoageing – the pigmentation, collagen breakdown and loss of elasticity we associate with chronically sun-damaged skin – as well as contributing to skin cancer risk.

But the old distinction of ‘UVB burns, UVA ages’ is an oversimplification – both contribute to skin cancer risk and long-term damage. Skin tone matters here too. Melanin offers meaningful protection against UVB, which is why people with darker skin tones are less likely to burn and have a lower risk of UVB-driven skin cancers. But melanin probably provides less defence against UVA, meaning photoageing, pigmentation melasma and are concerns across all skin tones. UVB falls dramatically in UK winters and is largely blocked by glass. UVA declines as well, but less steeply and passes straight through windows.

How much SPF should we be applying to our face, and body?

For the face, most dermatologists use the two-finger rule as a rough guide: a line of product along the index and middle fingers for face and neck.This equates to about half a teaspoon.

For the body, the gold standard is 2mg per cm² of skin – which translates to roughly six teaspoons or 36 grams to cover an average adult body. Most people apply a fraction of that, which means their effective SPF is significantly lower than the number on the bottle.

And reapplication matters: every two to three hours in direct sun, and after swimming or towelling

Lets speak a little about Heliocare – a brand that takes a unique approach to sun safety. Can you start by explaining what makes its formulations so innovative?

I think Heliocare have been incredibly progressive when it comes to sunscreen and have always provided highly effective sunscreen solutions suitable for all skin types and skin tones. Their 360° designation reflects genuinely full spectrum coverage – providing UVB, UVA, visible light and infrared protection – something many standard sunscreens don’t address.

And at the heart of their formulations is Fernblock – a patented extract of the fern Polypodium leucotomos, which adds a whole extra level of protection. This works at a cellular level – scavenging free radicals, supporting DNA repair mechanisms, and counteracting the immunosuppressive effects of UV exposure.

Let’s discuss a few of the products – starting with the Gel Oil-Free Dry Touch SPF50+. What is the benefit of having an oil-free solution? How does this product provide effective protection without clogging pores or feeling heavy?

In clinic, I find that people who are oily or acne-prone are often wary of sunscreens, because products have left them looking greasy or triggered breakouts. This formulation addresses that directly. The ‘dry touch’ element comes from a combination of microspheres, which actively absorb sebum and scatter light giving a real mattifying effect. As with all Heliocare products, it offers high full spectrum cover with antioxidant properties, giving the highest level of protection. The result is an SPF50 that people with oilier or breakout prone skin will actually wear daily.

Next, the Pigment Solution Fluid SPF50+, which is designed with pigmentation concerns in mind. How does sun exposure influence pigmentation, and why is targeted protection so important?

Pigmentation is one of the most common concerns I see in-clinic, and UV exposure is the primary driver. UVA stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin, causing both acute darkening and, over time, hyperpigmentation like melasma, solar lentigines, This formulation is thoughtfully formulated to tackle pigmentation. It uses a hybrid filter system – zinc oxide and titanium dioxide alongside chemical filters – which is particularly relevant because visible light has been shown to independently trigger pigmentation, especially in skin with a tendency to melasma. On top of that, it contains niacinamide, which inhibits the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes, and ellagic acid – an antioxidant with depigmenting properties. Having Fernblock in the formulation also adds another relevant layer of protection.

And lastly, the Water Gel SPF50+ – the lightweight SPF. What makes this product a good option for consistent, year-round application?

This is a fabulous daily sunscreen. It has a water-gel base that feels genuinely lightweight and hydrating rather than heavy or occlusive. The hyaluronic acid and hydration system means it hydrates, as well as protects. It’s non-comedogenic, works under makeup, and suits all skin types including sensitive. The ASPA-Fernblock technology provides that important biological layer of protection beyond the UV filters alone. And the 360° coverage – UVB, UVA, visible light and infrared-A – makes it genuinely appropriate for everyday year-round use.

Which product would you recommend for blemish-prone skin?

Acnimat is great for blemish prone skin. It helps mattify and reduce sebum. Alongside the full spectrum UVB/UVA/visible light and infra-red filters, Acnimat combines niacinamide and succinic acid to support skin clarity and balance

Lets discuss bodycare – can you explain what makes the Invisible Body Spray SPF50+ unique?

This is a hero product, something I take on every holiday. It’s easy to spray from all angles – so you can protect even those hard to reach areas. It works on wet skin and is the invisible formulation means it’s great for all skin tones. And most importantly, it provides full spectrum SPF50 protection for the whole body.

What are the key signs of skin damage or early skin cancer that people should never ignore?

Skin cancers can show up in a number of different ways. A changing mole, a non-healing scab or a bump that keeps bleeding. Essentially, anything on the skin that looks unusual or is not healing should be checked out.

What message would you most like to share this Skin Cancer Awareness Month to encourage healthier skin habits?

Many skin cancers are preventable, in fact skin cancer is one of the most preventable cancers we know of. We know that a very high proportion of both non-melanoma skin cancer and melanoma are attributable to UV exposure. So being careful in the sun is absolutely essential to maintain skin health.

Want to try the products for yourself? Check out the HELIOCARE products on The Beauty Triangle boutique…